September 20, 2008

I got to see 3 famous French chateaux this day. One was famous because of the genius who lived there the last 3 years of his life. The second was famous because it was designed by a woman and 2 notable women lived there. The third was notable for the King who commissioned it, its size and its very unusual roof.

The first chateau we got to see was Clos de Luce. This chateau was owned by the King and could be loaned out to whomever he wished. King Francois I was fascinated by the Renaissance. He decided to invite one of the great geniuses of the Renaissance to France and offered to let him live in Clos de Luce. That genius was Leonardo da Vinci. Leonardo was given the job of entertainments for the court when the King was at his hunting lodge at Chambord. I think he also organized and ran various other ceremonies when the King was at Chambord. One entertainment Leonardo created for the amusement of the court was mechanical lion that could spit out fleur-de-lis. He may have also been influential in the design of the King's new chateau at Chambord as this chateau has a Renaissance double helix staircase in it. Something Leonardo was known to have designed. While living at Clos de Luce, Leonardo was free to carry on his experiments and paint. He finished 1 painting while there. It was his painting of John the Baptist. It shows him pointing one finger up. I can't say I was terribly impressed with the painting. Another neat thing about the chateau is it is filled with models of Leonardo's inventions. The inventions show just how much ahead of his time he was. Many of his inventions have become realities in our modern age.

After visiting Clos de Luce, we journeyed to beautiful Chateau Chenonceau. This chateau was designed by a woman who was the wife of the French minister of finance. Later, when some discrepancies were discovered with the ministries financial books, the chateau was seized by the crown. King Francois I gave it to his mistress Diane of Poitiers who continued to improve it. Diane had a bitter rival in Francois's wife Catherine de Medici. She was very jealous of her but, there wasn't anything she could do about it until King Francois died. She became regent as her son was too young to become King. In an act of revenge, she forced Diane to take 2 lesser chateaux in exchange for Chenonceau. Catherine knew Diane loved Chenonceau dearly and this was a way for her to get back at her. Diane reportedly never lived at the other 2 chateaux. Catherine would go on to make further changes and improvements to the chateau. Because of the women who were so involved in its creation, the chateau is known as the Lady's chateau.

As I mentioned in my paragraph about Clos de Luce, King Francois I had a hunting lodge at Chambord which he changed into a chateau. Francois had only recently come to the throne and he wanted to make a statement about his power. Chambord was to be that statement. It would take 35 years to finish the new chateau. Francois didn't live to see its completion. The chateau is HUGE. Each room has 20 foot high ceilings. It is said that the chateau was impossible to heat. Also, it was easy to get lost in. A princess staying there reportedly asked for a map so she could stop getting lost in the place. The chateau also has an incredible roof. There is a maze of kaleidscopic chimneys as well as stairwells on the roof. The chimneys have a number of different patterns alternating with black and white tiles. It is truly amazing.

After our local guide Martine finished showing our group Chambord, we drove back to our hotel. That night, we had a group dinner at the hotel. The next morning, we would depart for Limoges, St. Emilion and stay overnight in Bordeaux. Stay tuned for my next report on my France adventure.